The Orkney Isles

Orkney is an island archipelago six miles off the northern coast of the Scottish mainland. Apart from the mountainous island of Hoy, the thirty plus islands are relatively low lying but have irregular and spectacular coastlines. These often consist of massive, sloping blocks of red sandstone, eroded by the continuous pounding of the sea to produce cliffs, caves and sea stacks, of which the 450 foot Old Man of Hoy is the most famous. The coastal walking is a delight; springy turf and airy views, accompanied by a cacophony of sound produced by busy seabirds and the ever changing sea below. The profusion of flowers includes the rare Scottish primrose.

Much of the geology is sedimentary rock; sandstones and flagstones are widespread. These were formed in Devonian times, the age of fishes, when sediments were laid down in the large fresh water lakes. The result has been twofold; firstly a fertile soil, ideal for the cultivation of grain and the rearing of cattle, and secondly a source of excellent building stone, whose qualities can best be seen in the magnificent 12th Century St. Magnus Cathedral in Kirkwall.

Orkney is a historian’s paradise; the Mainland (as the largest island is known) is particularly rich in artefacts. At Maes Howe there is the best megalithic tomb in Europe, whilst nearby are rings of Standing Stones. But it does not stop there. Further north is the world famous Stone Age village of Skara Brae and, a short hop away (at least when the tide is out!), is the remarkable Norse settlement and Pictish remains of the Brough of Birsay.

The islands have a long maritime history. For many centuries they were linked to Scandinavia and under Norse rule. The place names, the local dialect and some important buildings reflect this phase. In the late 15th Century Scottish Earls gained power and another chapter in their turbulent history began.

In more recent times, the strategic position of the isles has meant that Orkney has played a tactical role in the two Great Wars. Scapa Flow, an important naval anchorage, was the site of one of the most tragic events in Britain’s maritime history when in October 1939 the fully crewed HMS Royal Oak was sunk by a U-boat. Thereafter the famous Churchill Barriers were built. These linked the southern isles and so blocked entrances to Scapa Flow.

Fresh, locally produced food and the friendly Orcadians further enhance any visit to these unique isles, which provide an interesting contrast for people who have visited the Outer Hebrides or Shetland Isles.